Most measuring guides assume a house. Then you get the keys to a unit on the 31st floor and find a wall of glass, a concrete ceiling, a metal frame and a binder of building rules.
Condo blinds installation is not harder than a house. It is different in three specific ways, and once you know them the job is very doable. Here are all three, written for Toronto towers by a company that makes its shades in Toronto.
New to measuring? Keep the foolproof measuring guide open alongside this one.
Condo Windows Are Different
1. The structure is concrete. In most high-rises the ceiling is a poured concrete slab, and often the walls around the windows are too. Screws do not go into concrete the way they go into wood.
2. The windows sit in pockets and walls of glass. Instead of a trimmed window with a sill, you often get floor-to-ceiling glass divided by vertical metal mullions, set into a drywall recess or under a bulkhead. That changes where a shade can mount and how you measure for it.
3. The building has rules. A condo corporation's governing documents can control what residents do in their units, and window coverings are a common subject. Not a reason to panic — a reason to check before you order.
Condo Blinds Installation Starts With Measuring the Pocket
A window pocket is the recess the glass sits in, or the boxed-in space above it where a shade tucks out of sight. Measure it as an inside mount.
Width. With a metal tape, measure the inside width at the top, the middle and the bottom. Write down the narrowest, rounded down to the nearest 1/8 inch. Do not subtract anything: as of September 2026, when you choose Inside Mount we automatically deduct 1/8 inch from the width for clearance.
Height. Measure from the top of the pocket to where the shade should stop, at the left, middle and right, and record the shortest. On floor-to-ceiling glass, "where it should stop" is a decision, not the floor. Look for anything the shade could land on — a heating unit, a sill, a vent — and stop above it.
Depth. The one condo owners skip, and the one that decides everything. Our measuring guide puts the usual minimum for an inside mount at about 2 inches of flat depth, and asks you to check the product page — especially if you want a cassette, the enclosed box at the top of the shade. Shallower than that, and you are looking at a ceiling or wall mount instead.
Handles and cranks. If a window handle sticks out into the shade's path, a reverse roll sends the fabric down the front of the tube, further from the glass, which can clear it.
One wide shade or one per section
Floor-to-ceiling glass usually comes split by mullions into several panes. You can cover the whole run with one shade or give each section its own. What decides it:
- Size limits. Every product has a maximum width and height, and our customizer checks your numbers as you type. For example, as of September 2026 our Cellular shades take widths from 12 to 96 inches and Simply Cellular from 18 to 72.
- Where the joins land. If you split, line the shade edges up with the mullions. The mullion hides the gap between two shades.
- How you live. Separate shades let you close the one facing the afternoon sun and leave the rest open. One shade is simpler, but it is all or nothing.
- Reach. On tall glass, some shades end up behind a sofa or out of easy reach. That is what our motorized shades are for: rechargeable motors with USB-C charging, and remotes that run shades individually or in groups, up to 16 channels.
Measure each section and the full run, and write both down — our measuring worksheet has room for it. Measure every window in the unit, even the ones that look identical.
The Drilling Question
Every bracket needs screws, and so does the child-safety device that keeps a chain or cord taut — our install sheets anchor it to the window frame or the wall. So the real question is what those screws go into.
Find out what is above the window. Knock on it. Drywall sounds hollow; concrete sounds dead. Many condos have a drywall bulkhead above the windows — a boxed-in section that looks like ceiling. It is not solid, and it can hide ductwork, wiring or sprinkler lines. Do not drill blind into a bulkhead. If you are unsure what is behind it, ask property management before you make a hole.
If it is concrete, it is real work, not a problem. A slab takes a hammer drill, a masonry bit, and plugs or anchors rated for the load. Expect dust, noise and a slower first bracket. Some buildings restrict drilling into concrete or limit noisy work to certain hours, so check first.
Where brackets can go. Our install sheets show brackets mounted inside a window frame, on a wall or the front of a moulding, or on a ceiling. Cassette brackets go on a ceiling or a wall, with about 1/4 inch of clearance from the wall (ceiling mount) or the ceiling (wall mount). The sheets deliberately do not name an anchor type, because the right one depends on your surface.
About the metal window frame itself: our install sheets do not cover drilling into a metal condo window frame, and we are not going to pretend they do. Whether you are allowed to alter it at all depends on your building's documents. Ask your management office first and ask us second, before you drill.
When to hire a handyman. No hammer drill, every bracket going into concrete, or wide shades 9 feet up — paying someone for an hour or two is the right call. Everything after the holes — brackets, clicking the shade in, the safety device — is on our installation guides page and in our roller shade walkthrough.
Building Rules, Handled
Condos in Ontario run on governing documents: the declaration, the by-laws and the rules. According to the Condominium Authority of Ontario (checked September 2026), rules define how units and common elements can be used and must be reasonable, and where documents conflict, the Condominium Act comes first, then the declaration, the by-laws and the rules. In a British Columbia strata the names differ, but the idea is the same: your building's documents decide.
For blinds, in practice:
- Buildings commonly regulate how windows look from the street. The usual version asks for a white or neutral colour on the side of the covering that faces outside. Common, not universal — some buildings say nothing.
- Some also regulate drilling, window frames or contractor hours.
- The only version that counts is yours. Owners can request copies of the rules from their condo corporation; the Condominium Authority of Ontario points to its Request for Records form for this. Renting? Ask your landlord — the rules apply to residents, not just owners.
This is general information, not legal advice. Your documents and your property manager are the authority.
One practical tip: when your free samples arrive, look at the back of each one, not just the front. The back is what the street sees.
No-Drill Reality Check
We do not sell a no-drill mount for our shades and have not tested one, so we will not recommend a product.
What we can tell you is what the mount has to survive. A custom shade on a tall condo window is real weight hanging off its brackets, pulled up and down every day, next to a large pane of glass that runs hot in summer and cold in winter. Anything holding by pressure or adhesive instead of a screw has to handle all of that.
If drilling is what is stopping you, the more useful moves are: find out exactly what your building restricts, look for a surface you can screw into, or book the one-hour handyman. And note that our 5-year warranty covers manufacturing defects, not problems caused by improper installation.
The Condo Shortcut
You do not need a special condo product. You need the right numbers and a shade made to them.
- Order up to five free samples. Tape them to the glass, check them against your mullions at noon and at dusk, and look at the backs.
- Measure the pocket, the depth and every section, with inside or outside mount decided.
- Bring your questions to the showroom if you are nearby: 50 Hollinger Road, Toronto, walk-ins welcome Monday to Friday, 8:30am to 5:00pm ET, as of September 2026. Plan a visit.
- Order. As of September 2026, shades are made in our own Toronto facility, typically ready to ship within 2 business days, with free standard shipping across Canada.
Mis-measure anyway? Contact us within 30 days of delivery: our Fit Guarantee covers one complimentary adjustment or remake per eligible shade, up to four shades per household. Details on our Fit Guarantee page.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you drill into concrete condo ceilings for blinds?
Usually, yes — with a hammer drill, a masonry bit and anchors rated for the load. Check your building's rules first, and make sure you are drilling into the slab, not a drywall bulkhead that could hide pipes or wiring.
Do condos require white blinds?
Not universally. Many buildings ask for a white or neutral street-facing side; some have no rule. Request a copy of your building's rules before you order.
How do you measure floor-to-ceiling condo windows?
Measure each section between mullions and the full run. For an inside mount, send the narrowest width and shortest height, rounded down to 1/8 inch, without deducting — we take 1/8 inch off the width. Check the pocket depth and stop the shade above the floor or any heater.
Do no-drill blinds work in condos?
We do not sell or test a no-drill mount, so we will not vouch for one. A custom shade on a tall window is heavy and used daily, which is a lot to ask of pressure or adhesive.
Can blinds mount to condo window frames?
Our install sheets show brackets mounted inside a window frame, but they do not cover drilling into metal condo frames, and your building may not allow it. Check with management first, then ask us.
Ready When Your Windows Are
Your building has rules, your ceiling is concrete, and your windows are gorgeous anyway. Start with free samples, get a price in about 60 seconds, or shop custom shades — measured for towers, made in Toronto.